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When assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the family totally surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.